To all my blog readers:
Merry Christmas
and
Happy Holidays
From the Golf Course Maintenance Department
Tuesday, December 24, 2013
Monday, December 23, 2013
Grinding Tree Roots
Tree work continues... as for the last few days we have been grinding surface tree roots.
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| Cottonwood trees - surface roots |
On certain species these roots extend out beyond the drip line of trees and cause issues with the playability of the golf course, along with our maintenance and mowing equipment. We use a small stump/root grinder and grind off the surface on the roots and then seed divot mix into the ground area.
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| Small 6" grinder to grind roots |
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| After several roots have been ground |
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| What the roots look like in the fairway before grinding |
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| Effects of sub-surface, but shallow, tree roots on surrounding turf quality |
Thursday, December 19, 2013
Ice Rescue Training
With the recent cold weather and the nice ice layer that has formed on our irrigation lake along #18, the emergency response teams for Lewiston asked if they could practice their ice rescues on the lake.
With all the emergency vehicles lined up on the street many people thought there was an issue on the golf course, but just testing their equipment and training on how to use it in case of a real emergency.
It is an annual occurrence where they come out each winter when the lake has frozen over and is always very interesting to watch. This year they said the ice was about 6 inches. Last year they broke through with an ax, but this year they used a chop saw to cut a hole.
With all the emergency vehicles lined up on the street many people thought there was an issue on the golf course, but just testing their equipment and training on how to use it in case of a real emergency.
It is an annual occurrence where they come out each winter when the lake has frozen over and is always very interesting to watch. This year they said the ice was about 6 inches. Last year they broke through with an ax, but this year they used a chop saw to cut a hole.
Range Tee Dividers
We have finished installing the new dividers at the driving range tee on the concrete matted section that we use during the winter months. Thank you to Mr. Mike Bershaw for the material donation and all of his hard work in the project. What an improvement.
Wednesday, December 18, 2013
Tree Work Update
The maintenance staff at Lewiston Golf and Country has been taking advantage of the snowy weather and frozen ground to work on various types of tree work for the last 3 weeks. We spend about a month over the winter limbing up and pruning all trees on the golf course, pruning all landscape material and beds, and removing trees for various reasons. The tree removal usually draws the most attention and is what I will focus on here.
Every year the greens committee takes 1 of our meetings to tour the golf course, discuss our tree inventory, and make a plan for the removal and planting process for the winter. Tree are selected for removal typically based off of 4 things.
1) Impact on irrigation coverage - trees inhibit proper distribution of our irrigation system and form "shadows" where the irrigation water is prohibited from going. Our poor coverage of our older system magnifies this and trees creates a greater impact on our irrigation coverage.
2) Sunlight and Air movement - they prevent turf from receiving the proper sunlight and air movement
3) Increase cost of course maintenance - surprisingly they drastically increase our expenses to maintain the golf course when you consider the added time of rough mowers going around them, maintaining the grass adjacent to the tree edge i.e. weed trimming, clean-up from any debris the tree drops, leaf clean-up, and proper pruning and maintenance of the tree.
4) Competition with grass - Even more so this time of the year, you can see the competition and how the trees take water and nutrients from the turf. Follow a tree out to its drip line, that is approximately where the root system extends too, and within that drip line (circle) you will drastically see weaker turf.
My goal is not to remove all the trees on the course, but remove the ones that we can that effect our turf and playing conditions the most, while effecting playability and character of the golf course the least.
Also, when most trees are planted on the course, there is little attention paid to placement with respect to morning sun, which is the most important issue when dealing with turf management especially around greens and tees. This lack of attention is also the problem that when these trees are planted, they do not plan for the fact that trees grow and because of that the problems are amplified when proper location is not taken. Lastly, is the choice of species. Invariably whenever we have planted improper species and by this I mean an off site species (don't belong in this location and at this elevation). This would be the case with the pin oaks which we have to treat every year with iron and zinc and will still lose some. Then secondly quite often when we start a course we purchase the cheapest trees. This is the case of locusts, spruces and cottonwoods. They are not wanted for domestic use much anymore and the nurseries are just trying to get rid of them. The result is trees with shallow root systems, improper growth, weak structures and sometimes very serious clean up every year.
OK, enough about tree education on golf courses lets get back to how we improved your golf course.
The trees that have been removed are the locust on the left side of #9 at 200 yds and the locust on the right side of #17 at 225 yds. Those locust have a very shallow root system and steal water and nutrients from the grass making them a poor golf course tree. Both of those trees had replacements planted several years ago right next to them that are now big enough to act on there own. On #13 we removed the douglas fir on the right side at about 150 yds, here there were 3 in a row and by removing the middle one we really improved the turf quality without effecting the playability because the other two right next to it will prevent any shots from cutting the corner. We also removed a coupe large branches from the cottonwood on #17 because we have planted small replacements right next to them and this will allow those smaller trees to grow up. Due to the shallow roots that effect playability and our mowing equipment we have to start a plan to remove the cottonwoods in the future, and allowing replacement trees to grow for the next 3-5 years is the first step in that plan.
On #2 green we had discussed removing some from the right side to get that green to play more consistent with the rest of the course. The green is always firmer and faster in the summer because of less sunlight, and harder and more frozen in the winter. We cut down 4 and left 3, and I know this will be a big in consistent playability compared to the other 17 greens. Lets take a look.
The one tree that will develop some discussion because it was important for playability is the one on the right side of #2 at about 135 yards, I didn't want to remove this one but it was dieing and the inside was rotten. We lost about half of the top of that tree in Aug this summer, and I am going to get a replacement planted there as soon as we can dig a hole.
The spruce tree on the back of 3 tee was also removed for similar reasons above.
It is a good location and distinguishes the corner of the tee separating 2 green from 3 tee. But it puts a tremendous amount of shade on the tee and blocks irrigation. Remember how poor that turf is on the back half of the tee and behind the tee.
These pines block 100% of the light and water from getting through and they make it very difficult to maintain good turf there. I agree it is a good location for a tree but it is the wrong tree. A smaller nice ornamental would give us better turf conditions. The bottom line is by removing it we will improve the playability and conditioning of the course and a smaller tree will give us a similar character and feeling.
Our point through all this work is not just to remove trees, but we want the best balance we can have with appropriate golf course trees that create good shot making, playability, visual aesthetics, and character to the course while still allowing us to produce the best turf conditions that we can. I feel we are reaching that balance point, but we have a little ways to go by replacing the cottonwoods, some of the spruces, and a few locusts in the years to come with the appropriate tree.
Moving forward now we will try to get everything done as fast as possible. We will chip the branches on Thursday of this week.
and stumps will be ground the first week of January.
The firewood is almost all cleaned up already, and I would say by next week all the wood will have been removed.
Avista utility company will be coming through the golf course in 2 weeks to limb and remove a few trees that are directly under the power lines, in their right-of-way. These limbs and stumps will also be ground and chipped at the same time
All of this diligent winter work is important to ensure that we produce healthy and properly shaped trees that allow us to have playable turfgrass underneath them come next season.
Also, I am very happy to say the golf course is back to being open, even though there are frozen conditions it is still playing very good.
Every year the greens committee takes 1 of our meetings to tour the golf course, discuss our tree inventory, and make a plan for the removal and planting process for the winter. Tree are selected for removal typically based off of 4 things.
1) Impact on irrigation coverage - trees inhibit proper distribution of our irrigation system and form "shadows" where the irrigation water is prohibited from going. Our poor coverage of our older system magnifies this and trees creates a greater impact on our irrigation coverage.
2) Sunlight and Air movement - they prevent turf from receiving the proper sunlight and air movement
3) Increase cost of course maintenance - surprisingly they drastically increase our expenses to maintain the golf course when you consider the added time of rough mowers going around them, maintaining the grass adjacent to the tree edge i.e. weed trimming, clean-up from any debris the tree drops, leaf clean-up, and proper pruning and maintenance of the tree.
4) Competition with grass - Even more so this time of the year, you can see the competition and how the trees take water and nutrients from the turf. Follow a tree out to its drip line, that is approximately where the root system extends too, and within that drip line (circle) you will drastically see weaker turf.
My goal is not to remove all the trees on the course, but remove the ones that we can that effect our turf and playing conditions the most, while effecting playability and character of the golf course the least.
Also, when most trees are planted on the course, there is little attention paid to placement with respect to morning sun, which is the most important issue when dealing with turf management especially around greens and tees. This lack of attention is also the problem that when these trees are planted, they do not plan for the fact that trees grow and because of that the problems are amplified when proper location is not taken. Lastly, is the choice of species. Invariably whenever we have planted improper species and by this I mean an off site species (don't belong in this location and at this elevation). This would be the case with the pin oaks which we have to treat every year with iron and zinc and will still lose some. Then secondly quite often when we start a course we purchase the cheapest trees. This is the case of locusts, spruces and cottonwoods. They are not wanted for domestic use much anymore and the nurseries are just trying to get rid of them. The result is trees with shallow root systems, improper growth, weak structures and sometimes very serious clean up every year.
OK, enough about tree education on golf courses lets get back to how we improved your golf course.
The trees that have been removed are the locust on the left side of #9 at 200 yds and the locust on the right side of #17 at 225 yds. Those locust have a very shallow root system and steal water and nutrients from the grass making them a poor golf course tree. Both of those trees had replacements planted several years ago right next to them that are now big enough to act on there own. On #13 we removed the douglas fir on the right side at about 150 yds, here there were 3 in a row and by removing the middle one we really improved the turf quality without effecting the playability because the other two right next to it will prevent any shots from cutting the corner. We also removed a coupe large branches from the cottonwood on #17 because we have planted small replacements right next to them and this will allow those smaller trees to grow up. Due to the shallow roots that effect playability and our mowing equipment we have to start a plan to remove the cottonwoods in the future, and allowing replacement trees to grow for the next 3-5 years is the first step in that plan.
On #2 green we had discussed removing some from the right side to get that green to play more consistent with the rest of the course. The green is always firmer and faster in the summer because of less sunlight, and harder and more frozen in the winter. We cut down 4 and left 3, and I know this will be a big in consistent playability compared to the other 17 greens. Lets take a look.
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| Before #2 |
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| After #2 |
The one tree that will develop some discussion because it was important for playability is the one on the right side of #2 at about 135 yards, I didn't want to remove this one but it was dieing and the inside was rotten. We lost about half of the top of that tree in Aug this summer, and I am going to get a replacement planted there as soon as we can dig a hole.
 |
| You can see the entire middle section blew down this summer and the tree was rotten |
The spruce tree on the back of 3 tee was also removed for similar reasons above.
It is a good location and distinguishes the corner of the tee separating 2 green from 3 tee. But it puts a tremendous amount of shade on the tee and blocks irrigation. Remember how poor that turf is on the back half of the tee and behind the tee.
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| Shade right where the turf quality is the poorest |
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| Poor turf quality due to lack of sunlight, irrigation, and competition with surround tree roots |
Our point through all this work is not just to remove trees, but we want the best balance we can have with appropriate golf course trees that create good shot making, playability, visual aesthetics, and character to the course while still allowing us to produce the best turf conditions that we can. I feel we are reaching that balance point, but we have a little ways to go by replacing the cottonwoods, some of the spruces, and a few locusts in the years to come with the appropriate tree.
Moving forward now we will try to get everything done as fast as possible. We will chip the branches on Thursday of this week.
 |
| Branches ready for chipping |
and stumps will be ground the first week of January.
The firewood is almost all cleaned up already, and I would say by next week all the wood will have been removed.
Avista utility company will be coming through the golf course in 2 weeks to limb and remove a few trees that are directly under the power lines, in their right-of-way. These limbs and stumps will also be ground and chipped at the same time
All of this diligent winter work is important to ensure that we produce healthy and properly shaped trees that allow us to have playable turfgrass underneath them come next season.
Also, I am very happy to say the golf course is back to being open, even though there are frozen conditions it is still playing very good.
Friday, December 6, 2013
Snow Coverage????
The golf course continues to be closed with the small amount of snow coverage and the low temperatures in the single digits and highs in the teens leading to frost all day. The snow coverage is very interesting being it is 100% covered on greens, 50% on approaches and very minimal on the rest of the course.
Why is that???
Must be height of cut of the grass, right?
Actually it is because the greens are sand based and the fairways and rough are soil based. The sand is a larger particle size creating more pore space (air) between the particles thus allowing the colder air to enter the ground easier making colder soil temperatures, and not allowing the snow to melt. The soil based areas (rough and fairways) have smaller pore space allowing less cold air in creating a warmer soil temperature and the snow has melted.
On the tees and approaches we topdress them with sand so there is a light layer of sand over the soil thus creating about 1/2 the effect we discussed above and the snow has melted 50%.
Based on our forecast we anticipate the course will be closed through Monday, but hopefully opening up either Tuesday or Wednesday.
Why is that???
Must be height of cut of the grass, right?
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| #14 green covered in snow at noon on Friday, approach area 50% covered |
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| #5 and 2 green covered |
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Actually it is because the greens are sand based and the fairways and rough are soil based. The sand is a larger particle size creating more pore space (air) between the particles thus allowing the colder air to enter the ground easier making colder soil temperatures, and not allowing the snow to melt. The soil based areas (rough and fairways) have smaller pore space allowing less cold air in creating a warmer soil temperature and the snow has melted.
On the tees and approaches we topdress them with sand so there is a light layer of sand over the soil thus creating about 1/2 the effect we discussed above and the snow has melted 50%.
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| Snow in the approach (right side of pict), but less than on the green |
Based on our forecast we anticipate the course will be closed through Monday, but hopefully opening up either Tuesday or Wednesday.
Tuesday, December 3, 2013
Winter Course Set-Up
Here at Lewiston Golf and Country Club we have a unique situation managing a cool season turf golf course in a northern climate that is not snow covered all winter. We actually have very balmy winter weather as we sit down in a banana belt valley, and most days the highs are around 50 and we keep the golf course open all winter. The night time temperatures and cooler soil temperatures force the turf to go dormant, and that creates the challenges that we face. Traffic on dormant turf that does not have the ability to re-grow and recover from the abuse of golf.
To combat this we have developed a few unique tactics in course set-up and things you will encounter while playing out on the course.
1) Before the greens freeze in the fall we cut 3 cups on the green. The cup that we are playing to today has the pin and flag in it, while the other two have a black disk over the cup. This allows me to go out and rotate hole locations and rotate the traffic around the green even on the days when I cannot get a cup cutter in the ground.
2) Par 3 tees have matts to hit off so we do not continue to take divots when the turf is not growing back.
3) The par 4's and par 5's have the tee rocks and location set in the same location all winter. This creates all the traffic and abuse to be localized to one area on the tee box. Thus leavig us 90% of good teeing ground come spring and that 10% that was beat up over the winter can be aerified, seeded, and allowed to recover with no traffic as we will avoid that area on the tee for the first month after we began to grow again in the spring.
I hope you enjoy the nice winter days out on the course and please look for these unique features next time you play.
To combat this we have developed a few unique tactics in course set-up and things you will encounter while playing out on the course.
1) Before the greens freeze in the fall we cut 3 cups on the green. The cup that we are playing to today has the pin and flag in it, while the other two have a black disk over the cup. This allows me to go out and rotate hole locations and rotate the traffic around the green even on the days when I cannot get a cup cutter in the ground.
2) Par 3 tees have matts to hit off so we do not continue to take divots when the turf is not growing back.
3) The par 4's and par 5's have the tee rocks and location set in the same location all winter. This creates all the traffic and abuse to be localized to one area on the tee box. Thus leavig us 90% of good teeing ground come spring and that 10% that was beat up over the winter can be aerified, seeded, and allowed to recover with no traffic as we will avoid that area on the tee for the first month after we began to grow again in the spring.
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| Red circles - 3 cups cut in 1 green, 2 cups are ou of play with black discs, 1 cup with pin and flag |
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| Red circles - different hole locations, ability to change pins without cutting a new cup in frozen greens |
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| Up close of the disc covering the cup that is not in play today |
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| Tee markers are either way front or way back to save the rest of the teeing area during winter play |
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| Matts are utilized on par 3 tees to prevent divots when the turf is not growing. |
I hope you enjoy the nice winter days out on the course and please look for these unique features next time you play.
First snow
We received our first measurable snow last night. Even though it is only a couple inches, the forecast does not have us above 30 degrees for the next 8 days. Based on that, I see the golf course closed for a few days.
Fortunately everything on the golf course is ready for winter as we took advantage of the warmer un-frozen soil yesterday and finished up winter course set-up, spraying for snow mold disease, and getting the turf ready for winter.
The ground is not frozen yet so today we are buttoning up the last small project that was "open" on the course.
Fortunately everything on the golf course is ready for winter as we took advantage of the warmer un-frozen soil yesterday and finished up winter course set-up, spraying for snow mold disease, and getting the turf ready for winter.
The ground is not frozen yet so today we are buttoning up the last small project that was "open" on the course.
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| Drainage project along #5 green |
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